as an honors project for the course, BIOL 1303/13

FALL 2000

SELECTIVE BREEDING OF SCHIPPERKES

Schipperke breeders use selective breeding to improve the breed.

I. What is a Schipperke?

A. History of the breed

B.AKC Standards

C.Disqualifications

D. Personality of a schipperke

II.Methodology of Breeding

A. When not to breed

B. Why breed

C. Genetics of breeding

D. Ethics of breeding

III.Types of Breeding

A. Cross Breeding

B. In Breeding

C. Line Breeding

D. Out Breeding

IV. Additional things to consider before breeding

A. Age and health of both dogs

B. Time Invested

C. Cost invested

D. Your true intentions

Conclusion

Selective breeding is used to bring out desired traits. Responsible schipperke breeders use this method of breeding to improve the breed. In this paper, I will tell you a little about the breed, the different kinds of breeding, and what my plans and goals are, as I start up my own breeding program.

The schipperke originally came from Belgiam, where it is believed to have descended from the Belgian Shepherd. It was recorded in 1356 that it was unlawful for the common people to own large dogs. In response to this, and in order to protect their flocks, the farmers breed smaller dogs. Later in the 15th century the regulations were abolished. So there was no longer a need for the smaller dogs. Only in well-crowded areas did the schipperke become the house-alarm-system, the rats and mice’s catcher or the driver for geese and goats flocks. In 1609 the chronicle of the St. Crispijn guild tells of shoemakers who paraded with their black, tailless dogs on the big market of Brussels. In 1882 the Foundation of the Royal Belgian Cytological Club, St. Hubert enacted a pedigree for the different breeds and the schipperke was on this list as the “smallest shepherd in the world, black with a docked tail”. To protect the schipperke from extinction and improper breeding, the first official breed-club was grounded in 1888, namely “The Belgian Schipperkes Club” and registered under the number 001.

The AKC commonly known as The American Kennel Club, was formed in 1884 in Philadelphia, PA. It started out as a club for sporting dogs. By 1887 they realized the need for stud books to keep record of the different breeds. It was the AKC that set breed standards and rules and regulations for dog shows. In the 1920’s, all breeds (except for those in Miscellaneous Competition) were separated into five groups: Group 1 - Sporting Dogs, which included at that time all Hound breeds; Group 2 - Working Dogs; Group 3 - Terriers; Group 4 - Toy Breeds; and Group 5 - Non-Sporting Breeds. These Best of Breed winners in each group were then judged together to determine the best dog in that group, and finally, the five group winners met to decide the best dog in the show

In the 1930’s the AKC started to require licenses for all dogs registered with the club before they could compete in the dog shows. In 1998,AKC registered more than 1.2 million dogs and 555,000 litters. DNA rapidly gained acceptance not only by fanciers who embraced the new technology, but also by AKC who saw its promise as a tool to ensure the integrity of the kennel club's registry. Today schipperke, and all purebred breeders alike use the AKC standards to gage their goals for the perfect dog. The breed standard of the schipperke is as follows.
“AKC Standards
General Appearance The Schipperke is an agile, active watchdog and hunter of vermin. In appearance he is a small, thickset, cobby, black, tailless dog, with a fox-like face. The dog is square in profile and possesses a distinctive coat, which includes a standout ruff, cape and culottes. All of these create a unique silhouette, appearing to slope from shoulders to croup. Males are decidedly masculine without coarseness. Bitches are decidedly feminine without over refinement.
Any deviation from the ideal described in the standard should be penalized to the extent of the deviation. Faults common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Schipperke as in any other breed, even though such faults may not be specifically mentioned in the standard.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Size--The suggested height at the highest point of the withers is 11-13 inches for males and 10-12 inches for bitches. Quality should always take precedence over size. Proportion--Square in profile.

Substance--Thickset.
Head

Expression--The expression is questioning, mischievous, impudent and alert, but never mean or wild. The well-proportioned head, accompanied by the correct eyes and ears, will give the dog proper Schipperke expression.
Skull--The skull is of medium width, narrowing toward the muzzle. Seen in profile with the ears laid back, the skull is slightly rounded. The upper jaw is moderately filled in under the eyes, so that, when viewed from above, the head forms a wedge tapering smoothly from the back of the skull to the tip of the nose. The stop is definite but not prominent. The length of the muzzle is slightly less than the length of the skull.
Eyes The ideal eyes are small, oval rather than round, dark brown, and placed forward on the head.
Ears--The ears are small, triangular, placed high on the head, and, when at attention, very erect. A drop ear or ears is a disqualification. Nose--The nose is small and black.

Bite--The bite must be scissors or level. Any deviation is to be severely penalized.
Neck, Top line, Body
Neck--The neck is of moderate length, slightly arched and in balance with the rest of the dog to give the correct silhouette.

Top line--The top line is level or sloping slightly from the withers to the croup. The standout ruff adds to the slope, making the dog seem slightly higher at the shoulders than at the rump.

Body--The chest is broad and deep, and reaches to the elbows. The well-sprung ribs (modified oval) are wide behind the shoulders and taper to the sternum. The fore chest extends in front of the shoulders between the front legs. The loin is short, muscular and moderately drawn up. The croup is broad and well rounded with the tail docked. No tail is visually discernible.

Forequarters
The shoulders are well laid back, with the legs extending straight down from the body when viewed from the front. From the side, legs are placed well under the body. Pasterns are short, thick and strong, but still flexible, showing a slight angle when viewed from the side. Dewclaws are generally removed. Feet are small, round and tight. Nails are short, strong and black.
Hindquarters
The hindquarters appear slightly lighter than the forequarters, but are well muscled, and in balance with the front. The hocks are well let down and the stifles are well bent. Extreme angulation is to be penalized. From the rear, the legs extend straight down from the hip through the hock to the feet. Dewclaws must be removed.
Coat

Pattern--The adult coat is highly characteristic and must include several distinct lengths growing naturally in a specific pattern. The coat is short on the face, ears, front of the forelegs and on the hocks; it is medium length on the body, and longer in the ruff, cape, jabot and culottes. The ruff begins in back of the ears and extends completely around the neck; the cape forms an additional distinct layer extending beyond the ruff; the jabot extends across the chest and down between the front legs. The hair down the middle of the back, starting just behind the cape and continuing over the rump, lies flat. It is slightly shorter than the cape but longer than the hair on the sides of the body and sides of the legs. The coat on the rear of the thighs forms culottes, which should be as long as the ruff. Lack of differentiation in coat lengths should be heavily penalized, as it is an essential breed characteristic.
Texture--The coat is abundant, straight and slightly harsh to the touch. The softer undercoat is dense and short on the body and is very dense around the neck, making the ruff stand out. Silky coats, body coats over three inches in length or very short harsh coats are equally incorrect.
Trimming--As the Schipperke is a natural breed, only trimming of the whiskers and the hair between the pads of the feet is optional. Any other trimming must not be done.
Color -- The outer coat must be black. Any color other than a natural black is a disqualification. The undercoat, however, may be slightly lighter. During the shedding period, the coat might take on transitory reddish cast, which is to be penalized to the degree that it detracts from the overall black appearance of the dog. Graying due to age (seven years or older) or occasional white hairs should not be penalized.
Gait

Proper Schipperke movement is a smooth, well-coordinated and graceful trot (basically double tracking at a moderate speed), with a tendency to gradually converge toward the center of balance beneath the dog as speed increases. Front and rear must be in perfect balance with good reach in front and drive in the rear. The topline remains level or slightly sloping downward from the shoulders to the rump. Viewed from the front, the elbows remain close to the body. The legs form a straight line from the shoulders through the elbows to the toes, with the feet pointing straight ahead. From the rear, the legs form a straight line from the hip through the hocks to the pads, with the feet pointing straight ahead.
Temperament
The Schipperke is curious, interested in everything around him, and is an excellent and faithful little watchdog. He is reserved with strangers and ready to protect his family and property if necessary. He displays a confident and independent personality, reflecting the breed's original purpose as watchdog and hunter of vermin.

DISQUALIFICATION
A dropped ear or ears.
Any color other than a natural black”

There are a number of reasons that a person might want to breed dogs. Some of them are good reasons, but there are also many wrong reasons to breed. Breeding to “make money” is a myth. While “Puppy mills” and many backyard breeders might make some money; their puppies are generally unhealthy and carry many genetic defects. A good example of this is my bitch, Peaches. A backyard breeder bred her parents. While this person meant well, the breed wasn’t aware of the genetic defects in the bloodlines. Some of the bloodlines had heavy “puppy mill” which breed in epilepsy. The heavy epilepsy and size of Peaches makes her unfit for breeding. “Recognized Problems (from"Medical & Genetic Aspects of Purebred Dogs" by Ross D. Clark and Joan R. Stainer, published by the Veterinary Medicine Publishing Company, Edwardsville, Kansas): The Schipperke is remarkably free of breed abnormalities. Entropion and narrow palpebral fissures have been reported in the breed. There is some dermatitis that may appear in the fall, caused by allergy, but it responds to treatment well. Hay fever asthma occasionally appears in the fall in some individuals ... The one problem that is serious and is occasionally seen is Legg-Perthes disease. Even it is not common enough to be known and recognized by all Schipperke breeders. Cases of hip dysphasia are also reported”.

Another reason NOT to breed is so your children can experience live birth. If problems would arise such as the mother or puppies dying, as they sometimes do, could be very traumatic on everyone involved. Another reason people want to breed their dogs is because, they want a dog “just like” the one they already have. There in NO guarantee, the puppies will be like or even similar to your dog because only 1/2 of the puppies genes come from, your dog and the other 1/2 come from the other dog. Still another myth about breeding is that a bitch improves with a litter. This is totally false. While there may be temporary temperament changes, once the puppies are gone she will be her old self. There are also health risks for the bitch as well. In most cases, the “best gift” you can give your dog is having them spayed or neutered.

There really is only one GOOD reason that you should breed your dog, and that is if you honestly believe you are improving the breed. Before you breed your dog you need to do a lot of research. You need to research your dog’s pedigree, looking for genetic defects, dominant and recessive genes. Also check the breeding history, how many of these dogs have show quality dogs. For example, Dizzy, my show dog, has a good background on her father’s side, not as much is known on her mother’s side except that she is clean of defects. Dizzy, though she is slightly long, needs a little more coat and bone, is a candidate for breeding. She has a near perfect face, has a nice ear set, and a nice bite and profile. Next you would need to research any dogs you are considering breeding your dog to. You need to check their lines for defects and strengths and weaknesses. Shalako’s Bartered at Barsu, has more coat, and more bone. Barsus Chance be Good at DHS also has a nice coat, more bone and shortened body length Looking for the areas you want to improve. In the case of Dizzy, I would look for a sire with more coat and bone, and a squarer look. Below are some examples of working some breeding traits, to see what one could come out with.

The color black is a recessive gene and over many years other colors have been breed out. While other colors occasionally come out it is rare. Through doing this the schipperke breeders have taken a generally recessive gene and made it dominate within the breed. Much like the color black, long coats is are recessive gene so it will take several generations to breed this recessive gene out. To increase bone, I would need to breed her to a dog with more bone, then take one of the offspring to a grandparent with bone. I then would keep breeding dogs with good bone to other dogs within the line with bone. The same would be for the length. I would like a shorter dog, so I would find a dog with a shorter body and use their offspring to breed back down the lines to strengthen the lines and build a shorter body.

In working on getting better coat into my breeding program, I would take Dizzy and use out breeding, to breed her to another bloodline with better coat.

Here I do not have much of a chance of getting offspring with long coat, but I would have one that is carrying the recessive gene. Then I would breed one of these offspring (DOG B); to another dog with a long coat, to (DOG C).

This is where I could have long-coated offspring. I would then could use line breeding, and take one of these offspring and breed it back to Dog A, which also had a long coat, to strenghten the bloodlines.

This is where I should have all thick-coated offspring. I then could use line breeding to breed back to DOG C, to strengthen the bloodlines.

Here I will get a carrier of the shorter body, I then would breed one of these offspring (Dog B) to another dog, (Dog C) with the short body gene to get a short body.

Here I have a 25% chance of getting offspring (Dog D) with a short body. If I did get one I would then breed it back to Dog A.

Here I have 100% chance of getting the desired trait of having a short body. Now I would continue breeding for the shorter body.

For more bone I would do the same. I already know that Dizzy is a carrier for the heavier bone, since her father has good bone, obtaining more bone could come more quickly.